From olori (blog)
Andre Walker, Oprah’s hair stylist, created a hair typing system that classifies the various hair textures for people’s natural state of hair.
Each hair type is broken down into 4 types with added sub categories. This system is especially useful when determining what products to use for your hair texture.
Afro hair generally falls under ‘Type 3′ and ‘Type 4′ of the system. Below is a list of the different curl patterns to help you identify your hair type. We have also included handy tips for each type.
Type 3- Curly (Spirals)
Type 3 hairs are curly with a definite S pattern. The curls are springy and well defined. Curly hair is easily styled with a blow dryer. Usually, the hair is full bodies, fine and not coarse.
Type 3 curl pattern is subdivided into the following three subcategories: 3a, 3b and 3c
3a curls are big and bouncy. The circumference of the curl is about the size of a quarter.
3b curls are usually medium sized cork screws.
The circumference of the curl is about 4mm; the size of a marker pen.
Tips for 3a and 3b:
-Use moisturizers and styling aids that offer curl definition
-Use products and oils that help to control frizz.
-Comb hair with conditioner in it
-Never use a comb or brush on dry hair
-Allow hair to air dry or use a diffuser
-Rake product through the hair to distribute the product
Type 3c- Curly (Corkscrews)
These curls are tight corkscrews, however it is also common to have more than one type of 3c curl pattern. The circumference of the 3c curl is usually the size of a pencil or a drinking straw. This hair type can be referred to as Kinky-Curly. The curls are usually fine in texture and are not coarse. The curls can be densely packed together or very loose. This hair type can be blow-dried straight, but the process of blow drying and maintaining the straightness may be challenging. 3c hair can get dry and requires a lot of moisture.
Tips for 3c:
-Use thicker styling creams and butters
-Use moisturizing conditioner
-Be gentle. 3c hair is fragile.
-Only comb and detangle hair with conditioner in it
-Never use a brush or comb on dry hair (unless it is to create a desired style.)
-Rake product through the hair to distribute the product
Type 4 Hair- (Afro Curls)
Type 4 hair is kinky or kinky/curly with a tightly curled pattern. These coils are very bouncy and tight. Type 4 hair can vary across the board. It can be wiry, coarse, or fine with lots of densely packed coils. Type 4 hair is the most fragile since it has fewer cuticle layers to protect it from combing, brushing, blow-drying, and straightening. It can shrink from 40 to 75 % of its hair length.
4a has a visible tight cork screw pattern.
It looks like an S pattern when it is stretched out. These curls are similar to 3c curls, but smaller in diameter.
The circumference is often the size of a small knitting needle or crochet needle, and is prone to frizziness.
4b hair has a zig zag pattern, but no definite S pattern when stretched out.
The hair strands tend to have sharp angles, and a soft cotton-like feel.
4c- hair are the tightest and most fragile curls of the pack. 4C curls have a very tightly cork screw curl pattern. The hair is extremely bouncy and springy. It shrinks up to 75% of its length. The curls do not pack densely together, but appear as individual separate strands.
Tips for Type 4:
-comb and detangle hair wet with conditioner in it
-use lots of products with moisturizing ingredients and conditioners
-do not comb or brush hair dry unless it is to create a desired style
-rake product through hair to make sure it truly covers all the hair strands