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How Black-Up Cosmetics Was Stolen from Black Founder Bernard Fabrice Mahabo

QueenlyBee

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Boycott Black-Up Cosmetics!

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Bernard Fabrice Mahabo


Update 8 September 2015: black|Up is live on the Sephora website. Instead of releasing an official statement addressing the allegations that I have brought forth in this article, Sephora is content with deleting Facebook comments as it is “business as usual.”

Ivorian Bernard Fabrice Mahabo, the mastermind behind black|Up Cosmetics (also known as Godo Black-Up Paris, named after his late father Godo Zoleba Guillame) from 1999-2009.

If you are one of the many customers enthused about black|Up arriving stateside on Sephora.com September 8, and at select Sephora locations September 15, we need to talk. I originally planned to commemorate the event by compiling a link love list of reviews and articles written by my fellow bloggers.

Finally, there was a niche brand in the Scouted by Sephora initiative geared exclusively for black skin by black skin.
In 2011, I, like many in the blogosphere, thought it was a black-owned (and operated) company with stellar, orgasmic ads but horrible, condescending counter staff as reported by Yinka of Vex in the City on August 29, 2010.

Then when black|Up tapped Rihanna’s makeup artist Mylah Morales as a brand ambassador in 2011 (see their Facebook exclusive album), the collaboration further piqued our interest. Despite the contentious name, black|Up had potential to be one of the top luxury makeup brands for black women worldwide.

However, there was always something about the French black beauty brand that gave me pause. For starters, at least for us here in the States, the details surrounding black|Up have always seemed dubious. When I was writing my roundup, my energy felt off. I recently read rumors about how the company was stolen from the original owner.

At the time, I didn’t have a face or a name. I thought it was odd that Fashionista.com identified Lionel Durand as the founder in their 2011 interview. However, companies such as Cocotique gets the story correct by identifying Fabrice Mahabo has the founder on their blog.
Other publications listing Fabrice Mahabo as the founder:



From a snapshot of black|Up‘s about page on March 8, 2011, the brand offered this brief introduction about their origins:

Founded in 1999 black|Up Cosmetics is both the first makeup artist brand created and specialized for women of color, yet suitable for all women, as well as an upscale cosmetics line of unprecedented elegance and luxury, respecting the unique nature of ethnic skins and celebrating their intrinsic beauty.

Fast-forward to 2014 in which this blurb was updated with a short, nondescript reference to black|Up‘s real creator and founder Fabrice Mahabo.

It’s apparent to me if the brand was actually founded by Lionel Durand, the about me page would have glowed with transparency: photos, a complete biography, perhaps a timeline of accomplishments and major events. However, none of that is extended to Mahabo:
Founded in 1999 by an African makeup artist, black|Up Cosmetics is the first dedicated upscale beauty brand to magnify black and mixed beauties. black|Up develops a true expertise answering darker complexions’ specific needs and offers products that pair professional quality and pleasure of use: velvety effects, mat or powdery finishes, perfect coverage, ultra vibrant colors, 100% non-ashy finish… Thanks to its unique offer, black|Up has become a key player in the makeup world that seduces black and mixed women as much as all the makeup addicts of the planet.

Troubling Allegations Surrounding the black|Up Brand
Confession time: I was supposed to publish this expose days ago. I was only able to find two lengthy accounts of how Fabrice Mahabo was wrongly booted from his own company: one published earlier this month over at African Aroga on August

1. The other, written by Mahabo himself on his now defunct Canalblog (see below), can only be assessed through the Internet Archive Wayback Machine. Both, of course, are written in French.
Fabrice-Mahabos-Canalblog.png
Fabrice Mahabo’s Canalblog from March 23, 2009

Google Translate provided rough but adequate narratives. Luckily for us, I’ve unearthed a list of events that allegedly transpired during Mahabo’s time at black|Up (edited for length and clarity):

  • After graduating from the prestigious makeup academy Christian Chauveau in Paris in 1997, Mahabo has the brilliant idea to start Godo Black-Up(now just black|Up)in 1999. He names his company after his late father Godo Zoleba Guillame.
  • He submits his idea to a partner who agreed to go into business with him. This partner is responsible for administrative and legal matters. Interestingly enough, he never reveals the name of this partner. Mahabo owns 60% of the shares while his partner has 30%. They have a starting capital of € 7,500 (this would be $8,421 now)
  • On December 31, 2009, the company grossed €3.77 million (or $4.15 million today), with a net turnover of over €3.58 million ($3.98 million). Profits increased by nearly 40%.
  • In 2001, after opening a showroom in Paris and having great success with his melanin-friendly beauty brand, Mahabo inks an exclusive, 3-year contract with Printemps department store.
  • Business is booming! After Printemps, Mahabo links up with Sephora Paris, Galeries Lafayette Haussmann and finally, Macy’s. Macy’s is the first American department store to carry black|Up.
Screenshot-2015-09-02-10.37.36.png
The article ‘Black Up Comes to the U.S.” in the September 12, 2003 issue of WWD Friday Beauty


  • 2004 is a bittersweet year for Mahabo. The great news is black|Up has made over 230 sales. The burgeoning beauty brand is rapidly expanding and in need for a serious loan. Unfortunately, neither Mahabo nor his partner cannot secure the money needed to take black|Up to the next level.
  • In response, the unnamed partner, who proves to be unscrupulous, brings aboard a private “angel” investor to “help.” This investor is actually a partner, unbeknownst to Mahabo at the time. He never consented to this change of events.
  • Artistry and management suffer due to the new shareholder.
  • Meetings are no longer held at the black|Up headquarters; instead, the shareholder conducts his agendas at the locations of his other companies. (Editor’s note: Based on this statement, I do not think Lionel Durand is the private investor. If you take a peek at his Linkedin profile, before becoming the General Manager for black|Up, he was the European director for Valeant. Before that gig, he spent over 10 years as the Travel Retailing Director for Estee Lauder in Europe. None of the positions suggests that he has the clout needed to conduct this takeover.)
  • Mahabo is no longer invited to these meetings but he continues to submit his ideas to the new shareholder, who is not interested as he has created a new team.
  • black|Up’s atmosphere deteriorates. Mahabo’s staff becomes hostile towards him.
  • Mahabo is demoted from General Manager to employee status.
  • Mahabo is wrongly terminated from the company in 2007. Shortly after, he is arrested and detained by police for 24 hours without probable cause.
  • He receives a final settlement of €620, which he refuses to cash as he never signed over ownership. He is banned from future black|Up sales and offices. However, he still receives minutes although he is forbidden to participate. Someone is forging his signature.
  • During this time, the company still uses his likeness and name up until February 2009 in which he was completely erased from black|Up‘s history, even though he is the founder.
  • His shares are diluted from 60% to 3.8% of the share capital.
  • Mahabo valiantly initiates legal proceedings against his “partners.” He is met with intimidation, threats, and blackmail. Outnumbered and without the far-reaching power needed to triumph, justice for Mahabo is in limbo.

Mind you, this is a very condensed version of events. There are still details I need to decode in order to provide a more complete picture. In fact, this is what initially stalled my progress.

Yet, I knew Mahabo’s story needed to go viral soon to make an impact. I hope over the next few days (hopefully September 15) I can add more information so you can make an informed decision.

In a nutshell: Lionel Durand replacing Fabrice Mahabo as black|Up‘sGeneral Manager and consequently as the CEO/founder was not a voluntary transition. In the words of Brown Girl Friendly and Addicted to All Things Pretty founder Krissy Henry, “Founders don’t get erased.”
I dissected my next source: Fabrice Mahabo’s Facebook page. He wrote the following message on September 1, 2010:
c est la verite je n ai jamis vendu black up c est une ruse pour mes associes et mon bureau c'est la stricte verite merci pour tout vos soutients et bon ramadan a tous merci.

The truth is I haven’t sold black|Up. [It] is a ruse to my associates and my office. [This] is strictly the truth.And on September 17, 2010:
seigneur je te rends grace pour tous surtout pour cette epreuve car tu veux me montrer ta force et surtout ton amour jesus ma forteresse et mon rempart qu il soit fait selon ta volonte je te benis et je pardonnes pour tous les mal et humiliation que je subis je pries pour mes ennemis aie pitie d eux car ils sont ignorants

Lord[,] I give you thanks for all[,] especially for this ordeal because you want to show me your strength and especially your love[.] Jesus [is] my fortress and my fortress that it be according to your desire I will bless and I forgive for all the hurt and humiliation I suffered[.] I pray for my enemies[.] Have mercy for them because they are ignorant[.]

Since then, he has not posted anything else relating to his fate at black|Up nor has he listed any other occupations. There has been no promising updates concerning his case or plans to start fresh, to keep creating. Additionally, after immersing myself in reading and researching these damning allegations, the only logical step for me is to boycott the black|Up @ Sephora collection until the brand provides transparency about this controversy. I hope if you are reading, you’ll feel just as outraged, if not more, about this reprehensible situation.

Source: http://www.blaqvixenbeauty.com/black-up-lost-founder-fabrice-mahabo/#.VjI-tPmrTIU

http://madamenoire.com/584883/blackup-cosmetics-mystery-company-still-black-owned-not/

 

SaLiLi

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Oh my god, if this is true it's really bad. I hope he continues with the court case and hopefully he's saved emails or any correspondence.
 

LoveSupreme

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My sister recently bought that mess and only liked the eyebrow pencil and eyeliner.

She said she will send a box of foundation, etc. to anyone with a p.o. box.

One of her complaints is that the foundation was too light in color and heavy enough to scrape off with a knife.

I immediately thought of LSA and how all of these entertainers and beauty gurus layer that heavy Play Doh onto their faces.
 

jwill

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This is not surprising in the least. Sephora is owned by LVMH and they have a history of dubious business deals (not with makeup specifically, but as a business conglomerate and business practices--- think selling bags made in Chinese sweatshops). It's profit over everything. Thanks for the article op, I hope he can get his story out.
 

honey8271

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I hope he can launch a successful lawsuit. It looks like a shady mess and betrayal by people he trusted.
 

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Thanks for sharing my article [MENTION=196243]Dorothy Bee[/MENTION]!
 

QueenlyBee

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Thanks for sharing my article @Dorothy Bee!
That's your blog? I saw someone mention this and I had to look it up and saw it was never posted here. Will never buy Black-Up cosmetics, after reading this. I hope he sues the sh!t out of these fµck!ng vultures. The nerve and stupidity of them to get rid of the only person who knew what he was doing with the products.
 

Zuri Arie

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Disgusting...

I've never brought any of their products..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

AutoPilot

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I'm glad you posted this. I just ordered 3 sample cards to see if I could find a match. I placed the order on the 28th of October and I still haven't gotten a shipping confirmation. I was already leery of them after a few blogs said that they have crappy and rude customer service. I decided to take a chance with them with samples because its only a few $ plus I figured I wouldn't run into any problems since I was only purchasing samples. Them taking forever to mail out 3 measly cards with a few drops of makeup on them is strike 2. This article is strike 3. I won't be ordering anything else from their site and if they come to my Sephora I won't be purchasing their items.
 

Aloof Charisma

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I hope he can launch a successful lawsuit. It looks like a shady mess and betrayal by people he trusted.
Were these people who stole it black or white cause if they are white he should have seen this sh!t coming.
 

Aloof Charisma

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I know exactly what they did to him. Its called a "hostile takeover". He should not have let them intimidate him with black mail and threats, he should have collected proof that they were threatening him and black mailing him, he should not stay quiet about the incident. He should start back fresh and build up a brand and once he has enough leverage he should come for they asses!!!!! Revenge is a dish best served cold...
 

honey8271

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Were these people who stole it black or white cause if they are white he should have seen this sh!t coming.

I don't know the color of the original partner who betrayed him and the new investor who orchestrated the hostile takeover. However googling shows me that Lionel Durand is white and is now the managing director. These people better have come to a financial settlement with him.
 

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Bumping this thread because people still mention Black-Up in their B.O.M.B. makeup challenge videos and think that it's still black-owned. I wish we could sticky this post.
 

Hiddenplace

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Bumping this thread because people still mention Black-Up in their B.O.M.B. makeup challenge videos and think that it's still black-owned. I wish we could sticky this post.

But the makeup quality is horrible! Lol I tried a couple things in store and went nope onto the next. The color palettes are bomb for our skin undertones and color but it remind me honestly one step away from maybelline.
 

THE GENERAL

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But the makeup quality is horrible! Lol I tried a couple things in store and went nope onto the next. The color palettes are bomb for our skin undertones and color but it remind me honestly one step away from maybelline.

They think Black people stupid and we'll buy everything they give us without thinking about quality.
 

LaKesha1908

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They will never get my money!! People need to know this!! These YTers always showing products....Know the story behind these products....Just the fiasco with the BOMB challenge they were using products that were not even black owned.
 

THE GENERAL

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They will never get my money!! People need to know this!! These YTers always showing products....Know the story behind these products....Just the fiasco with the BOMB challenge they were using products that were not even black owned.

They were using popular products catered to a Black population which most were Asian or white owned. A damn shame. And there are so many small owned or up and coming companies that are Black owned. I got pissed seeing all of that Black Opal, Black Radiance and Sacha Cosmetics sh!t. For the most part, non Black companies profited off of that whole trend. Trend because they back to using the same ole white sh!t they were using before.
 

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yea, i saw blackup at a spehora in Los Angeles, for whatever reason, they weren't selling darker complexion foundations?????? I was like, then why do you call it black up when most blacks aren't white skinned?
 

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But the makeup quality is horrible! Lol I tried a couple things in store and went nope onto the next. The color palettes are bomb for our skin undertones and color but it remind me honestly one step away from maybelline.

I wonder what the quality was like before Lionel Durand was named the new CEO. I know someone has the tea on that somewhere
 

Miss 1990

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I wonder what the quality was like before Lionel Durand was named the new CEO. I know someone has the tea on that somewhere

I have an old issue of Honey magazine that gave it a review. This had to be like 2003. It received a lot of praise. The eyeshadow palettes seemed more cohesive color wise and the line had finely milled loose pigments. I might dig it up and scan it. It was short but informative.
 

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I have an old issue of Honey magazine that gave it a review. This had to be like 2003. It received a lot of praise. The eyeshadow palettes seemed more cohesive color wise and the line had finely milled loose pigments. I might dig it up and scan it. It was short but informative.

That would be amazing. I'd love to see it!
 

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